Q and A with Mitch Tonks, Rockfish

The best and only way to start a Q and A is ordering food. We had a selection of gluten free items whilst sipping on a flat white (top marks from an Italian here) and listening to Mr Blue Sky with a perfect view of Exeter’s quay (I recommend facing out towards the little shops and coffee huts – so cute).

The calamari was absolutely fantastic -as expected – I cannot remember the last time I had calamari! The cuttlefish was excellent and I am told one of Brixham’s prized landings. It’s very similar to squid but a little more tender and lighter in flavour. Coated in lemon, parsley, olive oil and garlic – my mouth is watering again just writing this…

The Guindilla peppers were a surprise. I am going to be honest…I wasn’t all that keen to try sweet and sour pickled peppers as I don’t really like pickled foods but wow will I be ordering these again. Crunchy yet sweet, fresh and salty at the same time. An experience for sure! A delicacy of Northern Spain. “Very reminiscent of the sea” (a quote from Laura, Communications for Rockfish).

Finally, the sardine boquerones were fantastic! Boneless sardine fillets cured in vinegar. So so meaty and surprisingly filling, these are served in the Spanish way dressed with olive oil, pickles, cucumber and tartar sauce with a serving of gluten free bread (great to soak up the mouthwatering juices at the end). The sardines were marinated beautifully in the sauce and the bread stayed together (already a miracle for gluten free!).

I began my Question and Answer session by talking to the lovely Laura, Communications for Rockfish. She was so passionate about Rockfish and it was a pleasure to talk to her:

Why pick Exeter for your new restaurant? 

Exeter is rapidly becoming the capital of the South West and it definitely had something missing. This location came up and it was just perfect with the water either side and that coastal connection. It really just fit.

You are continuing to expand your restaurant presence in the South West, do you have plans to go nationwide? (A question from many followers!) 

For us, the coast is where we are and our aim is to make seafood more accessible. Being in the South West next to the coast, we can achieve this. An inner city restaurant just wouldn’t have the same effect. We are, however, expanding to Weymouth and Poole next year!

One of my favourite things about Rockfish is that the staff sit you down and talk you through the catches of the day, the best way to have them served up and the best sauce for the meal. They all seem to have a real passion for offering advise.

We really appreciate our staff and feel its very important to be passionate. We have an Awards Evening called Rockfest every year to celebrate and praise staff.

Part of the training involves a 6am start at Brixham Fish Market to see where the fish comes from, how you prep it/cut it, how you batter it (to the right degree, holding for the right amount of seconds) and learning what best to serve it up with. This training is for everyone and not just the chefs. Laura even did it herself. Every morning the staff are briefed on the catches of the day. 

I was then greeted by the Head Chef, Kirk who was more than happy to answer my food questions and very enthusiastic about gluten free:

What fish would you advise someone to start with at home? How would you cook it and what gluten free sauce would you serve it up with?

Simplicity is key alongside getting fish straight from the source – go straight to a fishmongers! I suggest a simple pan fried fish, giving it a final blessing at the end (a brush of garlic butter) or sprinkling with a little olive oil, lemon and sea salt. Salsa Verde is a great gluten free sauce and a simple switch to gluten free mustard makes it accessible for all. Don’t drown it in sauce – seafood is not meant to be hidden.

How is the batter so light?

Regular batter is heavy. We make our own batter and make sure we change it regularly to ensure it doesn’t get too greasy. It’s about getting it at the right degree. It’s a bit like Tempura batter, very light.

What do you think of the gluten free flags and menu?

I used to think oh no I have to make this gluten free…how do I do this? But now I think about that before I start everything. There is so much choice on the menu and we really wanted to make it accessible for all, not limiting for people. The flag gives you confidence too. What we want is you, being gluten free, to be blown away with choice!

And then I spoke to the man himself, Mitch Tonks:

You are a nationally recognised chef, have an array of books (I need to buy one!) and you’re on TV and in the press but if you could sum up your career with your best experience…what would it be? 

Starting out. That moment when you are full of enthusiasm for your new venture. I have the same feeling when I open every new restaurant. Lots of entrepreneurs get really beaten down but being enthusiastic is definitely key.

You do a lot for protecting the ocean. Why is that important to you personally?

It’s something that is in our DNA. We don’t do it because it’s cool or something we “should do”. Why would you cook fish that isn’t sustainable? Why would you use lots of single use plastic? 

Mitch went to Thailand last year and was so disappointed to see the vast amounts of plastic across the beaches.

Rockfish give out kids packs to encourage them to pick up plastic on beaches, they have taps outside all of their buildings so you can re-use your bottles and top up on route – customer or not…, each restaurant supports a local charity – Brixham’s one is called Till the Coast is clear (aims to clear local beaches) and the deckchair out the front is made using recycled fishing nets which had been washed up on beaches!!

What inspired you to go gluten free in your restaurants? Most places only have a gluten free Monday!!

We wanted to make it accessible for everyone so started out gluten free however a big scare shook me up and made me really think: if you do gluten free, you need to do it properly! We kitted out the kitchen, changed all the equipment and went through the audit and accreditation. We have very thorough training so that we can ensure that we cater for all.

https://www.therockfish.co.uk/features/gluten-free-seafood-suitable-for-coeliacs/

What fish would you advise someone to start with at home? How would you cook it and what gluten free sauce would you serve it up with?

White fish such as pollock or cod. Bit of foil and parchment paper. Bit of gluten free soy sauce, lime juice, butter and a dash of chilli. 10 minutes cooking and you get great asian flavour.

Thank you to Rockfish Exeter and in particular Mitch, Laura and Kirk for their time.